Rabari Bharat, the exquisite handicraft of Kutchh, Gujarat, is facing the threat of losing its essence. This traditional embroidery art, practised by the Rabari community for generations, is a vital part of Gujarat's rich cultural heritage. However, with changing times and modern influences, the art form is at risk of fading into obscurity
The project focused on the revival of Rabari Bharat embroidery, a traditional craft from Gujarat, particularly in the region of Bhuj. The journey began with a research trip to Bhuj, immersing in the cultural context and techniques of this unique embroidery style. The goal was not just to replicate the traditional motifs but to revitalize the craft by retaining its essence while infusing contemporary elements.
Through in-depth research and exploration, the project aimed to preserve the authenticity and heritage of Rabari Bharat embroidery while making it relevant in modern contexts. This involved understanding the historical significance, motifs, stitches, and materials traditionally used in Rabari Bharat embroidery.
The final project showcased a harmonious fusion of tradition and modernity, ensuring that the essence of the craft was not lost but evolved to appeal to contemporary tastes. This revival effort was not only about creating beautiful pieces but also about preserving a cultural legacy and providing sustainable livelihoods for artisans practising this craft.
INDIAN CRAFT AND DESIGN INTERVENTION
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Introduction
My portfolio delves into the captivating world of Rabari Bharat, a traditional craft originating from Kutch, India. Through my work, I aim to revive this exquisite art form, ensuring it remains vibrant and relevant in today's world. Central to my concept is "Chhanvi" (reflection), symbolizing self-expression and cultural heritage. This craft, historically preserved and practiced by Rabari women, holds a special place in our cultural tapestry.
My innovative approach seeks to contemporize Rabari Bharat, while staying true to its roots and authenticity. I aim to reintroduce this unique art form to a wider audience, shedding light on its beauty and cultural significance.
One of my key products is a Wall Mirror, inspired by the concept of "Chhanvi," designed to enhance home decor with its artistic flair. Through meticulous attention to detail, I have transformed this traditional craft into a modern masterpiece, preserving its essence and beauty.
In essence, my portfolio is a tribute to the timeless artistry of Rabari Bharat, showcasing its intricate beauty and cultural significance in a new light.
Rabari Bharat
The vibrant embroidery style known as Rabari or Rewari embroidery originates from the Rabari community of Rajasthan, India. Traditionally, this colorful embroidery adorned garments, but it has now evolved to be used on a variety of items such as bags, accessories, and home decor. One of the distinctive features of this embroidery is the use of mirrors in various shapes and sizes, believed to ward off evil spirits.
The motifs in Rabari embroidery are diverse, featuring flowers, fruits, animals like parrots, as well as abstract shapes and geometric patterns. The embroidery is typically done using chain stitch, with vibrant colors creating a striking contrast. Additionally, back stitch, known as bakhiya, is used to embellish men's jackets and the seams of blouses, adding further intricacy to the designs.
Over time, Rabari embroidery has evolved to include modern interpretations and applications, making it a versatile and enduring art form. Its rich history and cultural significance make it a popular choice for those seeking to add a touch of traditional Indian craftsmanship to their lives.
Information about Rabaris
Rabaris are renowned for their exquisite embroidery, which adorns a wide array of items including garments, bags, household decorations, and even animal trappings. Each embroidered piece tells a story, highlighting important events, rites, and values in Rabari life.
Traditionally, girls embroider items like blouses, skirts, veils, wall hangings, pillows, purses, and Kothalo, which are dowry sacks. These pieces symbolize their contribution to their dowries and often feature intricate designs and mirrors believed to protect their children from evil spirits.
Married women continue the tradition by embroidering children's clothing and cradle cloths. These embroideries not only showcase the importance of children but also emphasize particular customs and values within the Rabari community.
Rabari women's attire also carries deep cultural significance. Mature women dress in black as a sign of ritual mourning, honoring a king who died protecting the Rabaris centuries ago. Younger women wear colored blouses subtly embroidered at the sides to indicate mourning. Skirts are beautifully embroidered with colorful threads and scraps of silvered glass, adding to their allure.
Additionally, Rabaris pay homage to their camels by embroidering their trappings. For ceremonial occasions, Rabari grooms don elaborately embroidered long adan jackets and chorani pants, while brides wear ghagharo skirts. These garments echo the attire of royalty from centuries past, reinforcing the legend of the Rabaris' close association with Rajput rulers
Stitches used
Rabaris employ glass mirrors in various shapes such as round, lozenge, rectangular, square, triangular, and beak-shaped in their embroidery.
The predominant stitch used is the open or square chain stitch, also referred to as ladder chain stitch, which forms the basis of their intricate designs.
In addition to the chain stitch, Rabari embroidery features a variety of other stitches. For mirror work, they use square chain interlaced with buttonhole stitch. Other stitches include single chain, knot, Romanian stitch, blanket stitch interlaced with herringbone stitch, running stitch, and double running stitch.
Motifs
Rabari embroidery is a vibrant tapestry of geometric shapes like squares, triangles, rectangles, and circles, intricately woven together to create abstract motifs. These motifs often depict a range of subjects, including birds and animals, flowers and fruits, landscapes and seascapes, as well as insects and reptiles.
The designs are rich in symbolism, featuring not only natural elements like flowers and animals such as parrots and elephants but also cultural symbols like temples, women carrying pots, and the iconic mango shape.
Rabari embroidery draws inspiration from mythology and the desert landscapes that surround the Rabari community. The abstract motifs used in their embroidery are a reflection of their ever-changing world, showcasing their cultural heritage and artistic expression.
Indian Designers who worked on Rabari Bharat
ANJU MODI
On a micro-level, Anju Modi has tirelessly been working with master artisans across the country, evolving the label as one that does not only derive from the rich cultural heritage but also contributes to the bank of textile reserves and ancient crafts. She has delicately and dedicatedly revived age-old Indian techniques, long forgotten.
In weaving, vegetable dyeing, block printing and old traditional embroidery she has created an extensive library of research and development. She has also been working on contemporizing traditional crafts like Chanderi Weaving, Kota Fabrics, Varanasi Zari work and Bandhani printing, to fulfill the needs of a market and niche that she has created. With India at the centre of her inspiration, her designs have evolved and her vision enriched.
ANJU MODI
On a micro-level, Anju Modi has tirelessly been working with master artisans across the country, evolving the label as one that does not only derive from the rich cultural heritage but also contributes to the bank of textile reserves and ancient crafts. She has delicately and dedicatedly revived age-old Indian techniques, long forgotten.
In weaving, vegetable dyeing, block printing and old traditional embroidery she has created an extensive library of research and development. She has also been working on contemporizing traditional crafts like Chanderi Weaving, Kota Fabrics, Varanasi Zari work and Bandhani printing, to fulfill the needs of a market and niche that she has created. With India at the centre of her inspiration, her designs have evolved and her vision enriched.
SABYASACHI MUKHERJEE
Sabyasachi Mukherjee showed his first collection in 2002, at the Lakmé India Fashion Week, with his collection, Kashgar Bazaar. Full of beautiful block printing, artsy patchwork and intense colours, the clothes had an organic sensibility, and the models carried books and wore reading glasses as accessories
Sabyasachi Mukherjee showed his first collection in 2002, at the Lakmé India Fashion Week, with his collection, Kashgar Bazaar. Full of beautiful block printing, artsy patchwork and intense colours, the clothes had an organic sensibility, and the models carried books and wore reading glasses as accessories
NAEEN KHAN FALL 2012
Mumbai-born fashion designer Naeem Khan presented his Fall 2012 collection at Lincoln Center as part of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York City. The 39 looks he created had a distinctly Indian feel with their paisley patterns and Indian body art motifs [known as Tilakas] such as a series of white swirls and were titled "The Body As A Canvas: From the Mughal Paisley to the Hindu Tilakas" to reflect the influence.
Mumbai-born fashion designer Naeem Khan presented his Fall 2012 collection at Lincoln Center as part of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York City. The 39 looks he created had a distinctly Indian feel with their paisley patterns and Indian body art motifs [known as Tilakas] such as a series of white swirls and were titled "The Body As A Canvas: From the Mughal Paisley to the Hindu Tilakas" to reflect the influence.
THEME-
THE RABARI WOMAN
The Creator Herself
THE RABARI WOMAN
The Creator Herself
The inspiration for this product is drawn from the distinctive appearance of a Rabari woman. Known for their unique style of dressing and overall appearance, Rabari women are a symbol of elegance and cultural richness. The product will showcase the traditional attire and accessories worn by Rabari women, capturing the essence of their beauty and heritage.
Concept- Chhavi-
Reflection of One's Self
Reflection of One's Self
The concept of this project is deeply rooted in the lives of Rabari women, for whom embroidery is a form of language and self-expression. Each motif in Rabari embroidery carries a name and meaning, reflecting elements of their daily life and offering insights into their worldview. Some symbols hold historical significance, preserving the Rabari community's knowledge of their heritage.
Mirrors play a significant role in Rabari embroidery, symbolizing protection from evil spirits and reflecting inner beauty. This traditional art form not only serves as a means of artistic expression but also as a way to convey cultural beliefs and values.
